Cleaned up ALOT from the original post here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212747
I ended up with the version 2.2 ECU from the MS website in kit form for somewhere around $175.
I'm running an MS1 unit, standard processor. I'm not using an idle solenoid at all, I just nurse it till it holds a steady idle which only takes a minute or so (even with outside temps hovering around 20*F!). How easy was it to program? Put it this way, I broke the engine in and took it for it's initial drive without changing a single thing! I'm not saying it was running very well, but it was close enough for a low speed spin around the block. It took around a week to have it mapped to 7 lbs, by the end of a month's time I was driving it to work at 12. I'm never 'done' tuning it either, that's something that just keeps evolving with time. Whatever you program into it will stay in memory, no matter if you disconnect the battery or not. I built everything myself, including the ECU.
That includes the parts kit, and the stim board to test it, once assembled. I also aquired various support electronics that I felt were going to be useful down the road, and ended up getting a laptop for tuning, an Apex digital boost controller, and a HKS turbo timer all for $200 from some ricer that maxed out his credit cards ricing out his Evo. He had to sell me his stuff to pay his credit card debt. Anyway, I assembled the ECU, cleaned the porn and viruses off the laptop, and reloaded the software, and there's the EFI electronics for $375. Other small things will still be needed, like a pump, regulator, injectors, throttle body, and the lines, but all that stuff can be had for less than $50 at the junkyard. Now I'm at $425.
Also, I ended up buying a Wideband O2 http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm Not a required item, but very useful, and it's been paying for itself anyway due to being rented out to my friends on occasion.
Next, I got a turbo header from CB Perf ($280), dual port end castings for EFI with fuel rails ($181), and a couple turbo's and intercoolers from the junkyards (in all about $100).
That brings the running total to $986, so I'm a little over budget, but not by much. Assuming you already have a running engine that is suitable for this kind of conversion, I'm positive anyone can build an EFI system like this even for less than I have. There are cheaper alteratives to some of the parts, like using VW FI end castings (FI Beetle), and welding your own header.
After some fabbing
You can also see the intake; I fabbed it from a single 180*, 1-5/8" OD U-bend, a sheet of 22 guage mild steel, and a piece of 1/4" plate to mount the TB onto. Basically, I just cut the U-bend in half, sectioned it, and welded the 2 pieces together. Then, I measured the circumference of the intake, and the circumference of the TB, and cut a piece of the sheet steel that when wrapped into a tube, came out to the right size at both ends. After welding the tube to the intake, I cut a piece of the 1/4" stuff, and made the plate for the TB.
1915, turbo.
Specs include FK-8, 82X94, stroker pistons, CB Unitech HD Plus I-beam rods, aluminum case, the straight cut cam gears and
Heads are CB 044 Magnum's, with 42X37.5 valves, and the chamber is 65cc. Combined with a .040" copperhead gasket, and flushed pistons, I get somewhere around 7.6:1 compression.
I normally boost to 10~12 PSI, Garrett T3, .42 comp 50 trim, .48 turbine, from a turbo Saab 9000.
For sensors, I have Intake Air Temp (IAT), Coolant Temp (CHT actually, mounted to the left head), Crankshaft Position, Throttle Position, and Wideband Oxygen. That's it. EDIS handles the timing, MS handles the fuel. TurboFord injectors, Tempo EDIS ignition system, pump is actually a generic Ford knock-off from Autozone, and the sensors all came from a mid 90's GM car. Doesn't matter what model you rob the sensors from, they all used the same parts.
As for the EDIS, I run the EDIS module with MS controlling it still (there are versions of MS code that run the Ford coils directly), but only because I like the redundancy. MS talks to the EDIS control module, which does the dwell and handles timing commands and all that. If I somehow lose communication between the MS and EDIS units, I will still get 10* timing to make it home. When you directly drive coils with MS, if something goes wrong you're stuck
