Cheap ass but good wideband o2

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Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby vdubjim » Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:23 pm

Alot of good reviews online about it.
JAW o2 wideband kits

http://www.14point7.com/
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Re: Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby vdubjim » Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:41 am

Great write-up from a 'crusty shadow' turbo dodge website:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f21 ... today.html

Incase the post goes away:
well as the title states, got my JAW hooked up and installed today- its freakin sweet! i love it! kit showed up on wed, so i tore the box open like a 5 year old at christmas.
assembling the controller and display was very easy, all the locations were pretty clearly makerked on the PCB, only took me an hour and a half to put the whole thing together.just had a bunch of dental work done earlier int he afternoon, and got it done that fast while all wigged out on vicodin.

you'll need a 30 watt pencil type soldering iron- one of the cheapo 20 dollar ones work great
some small gauge 60/40 solder. the stuff with lead works better, but if you wana be fancy and go lead free have at it. just get the smallest gauge solder you can find- will look almost like thick fishing line. if you try to use the thicker stuff you have to be very careful to not add too much solder or create solder bridges.
a clean static free work area! do NOT assemble this unit in a room with carpet, do not lay parts on a towel! i did mine out on in the garage, on a work cart i have with a rubber lined lid, and wore antistatic gloves and shoe straps.( i work in an electronics factory so i already had em, dont bother if you dont have em.)
either a clean workbench in the garage, or the kitchen table will work great, but no towels and no carpet. one zap of static electricity can ruin the chips.

like i said assembly was simple, and should be pretty easy for anyone who can solder, just go slow and take your time

the tricky part comes when you get the unit hooked up and begin to communicate with it and get the O2 sensor calibrated.
the controller has a DB9 serial interface for linking up to a computer, which you HAVE to do in order to calibrate. theres a couple ways to do it. since i dont own a laptop, i ended up dragging my comp out to the garage. BUT my comp is older and has a serial interface input on the back, so all i had to do was dig up a DB9 serial cable, and plug it in.if you dont have a serial port on whatever comp you use, get a serial to usb adapter, most places online sell em for 10-20 bucks. ( you'll also need one if you decide to build a flashable SMEC or megasquirt)
hook the controller up to power with a CAR BATTERY! do not use a battery charger or a power supply etc, it prevents the unit from working properly, it will not comunicate or calibrate at all! i dicked around with it for an couple hours trying to communicate, so i finally pulled my car in and hooked it up to the battery- success! queried on the first shot! first thing i did was uploaded the firmware for my unit (1.03, 1.04 is out now). as soon as you connect power to the controller, the display will show 14.70 A/F and run right up to 33.68. this is normal. if you dont have a comp avaliable, or the O2 sensor handy you can still check the unit out, just hook up power and ground, and watch the display- it will show 33.68 right off the bat. with the O2 connected it will start out at 14.7 and rise to 33.68- within about 15 seconds or so.
so with O2 connected and JAW communicating with computer, hit the button labeled, "start datalogging" you will see the A/F on the JAW deploy screen and the display for the unit be almost identical the heat count will start out at 255 and slowly work its way down to 16. when it stays right at 16, you're supposed to hit the calibrate button, whcih for some reason i couldnt do. the button would only work if i was out of the datalogging mode., then it would say heat must be at -16 tried over and over again. so i hit get cal value, it gave me a -1, so i entered in 0. alan on the 14point7 web forum says if the value is between -10 and +10 to just set it at 0. clicked on write cal val, and it took that value.
with the sensor hanging in free air, it should read 33.68 or 2.33 lambda. heres how to test it to see if its working properly- take a lighter, but dont light it and press the gas button down and hold it right up next to the tip of the sensor- the display should run right to full rich- 10.68 in a hurry, and slowly rise to 33.68 after you let off the gas. if everything looks kosher you're ready to install it.
you'll need an O2 sensor bung, they all are the same size so it doesnt matter where you get it. autozone, oreilleys , parts america, napa all have em, but you have toorder em in and they are like 20 bucks. screw that! i went to my local mieneke, and they had em there in a big box. the guy was pretty cool, sold me one for 5 bucks, and even gave me a plug to go in it. came in handy when i was welding it in so i didnt have to worry about getting anything on the threads. i also beveled one end to match the contour of the exhaust pipe. this helped out 2 ways-made the bung fit better and the plug i was given stuck out slightly past the bevel i made, which kept it centered over the hole i drilled inthe pipe while tacking it into place. i was able to weld the bung in with the pipe still atached to the turbo and didnt drop anythign down. i located it about 10-12 inches before the catand had the sensor pointing down at about a 10-15 deg angle so nothing would collect in it and ruin the sensor. if you have an exhaust shop do this for you, make sure they angle the bung down! if oil or anything in the pipe collects on the sensor its done. dont mount the sensor int he original O2 location- its too hot, and this sensor has it own heater. after the sensor was installed i ran the wiring into the car, i ran it through the hole for the shift cables cause it was conveinient, and i didnt have a lot of extra wire laying around. i ended up stuffing the box under the center console right below the cubby hole under the radio. i mounted mine in a radio shack project box, but i dont have a fan yet so i just left the lid off till i can get one.
wire it up use a good ground, and power goes to true ignition( blue wire at the ign harness) turn the key on and display should light up and display 33.68 or so. start the car and be amazed! lol.
i havent connected any of the other inputs or used any outputs yet, just trying to get it in and working properly, which it seems to be doing. i have the display sitting on the drink holder for now. im gonna get some plexi, and pull out the message center and make a new face for it, and mount it behind some smoke plexi right next to the factory boost gauge. then im gonna get some vynil decals made that match the display for the mesage center but only smaller and use red led's to light up the doors trunk and low fuel warning segments. should look pretty slick when its all done but for now its in and it works!

also was able to confirm some suspicions tonight. car feels like its been running rather rich since i dropped in the +20 injectors. this is the car i converted to run on E85, so i dropped in bigger injectors to accomodate the extra fuel required to run properly.
stock fuel pump, afpr set to 55 psi at idle, and +20's and a Gvalve set to 12 psi,the car runs pretty good on stock cal. idle , part throttle cruise(no boost) it runs right around lambda 1.0. under any boost part throttle its right around .90- .85 nearly perfect! but under WOT and 12 psi at any engine RPM it drops all the way down to .68- whoa baby- pig rich big time! i have to use lambda because the stoich AFR for gasoline and E85 are different, and alan hasnt made change to JAW edit yet to account for different fuels. but lambda is the universal stoich so i just use that. now that i know i have plenty of fuel avaliable, im ready to get rid of this stock cal and run a flashable SMEC, get rid of boost cut out, and WOT open loop. along with some fuel adjustments and timing tweaks. now i just gotta find another turbo SMEC and modify it and im ready to rock. cousin already said i can use his dyno whenevre i want so im itchin now! until that happens i might just use one of the outputs and feed a NB O2 signal to the ECU and trick the comp into giving the right amount of fuel.

hardest part of this whole thing was drilling the hole for the O2 sensor- everything else was cake!
heres the cost breakdown

JAW controller with display, unassembled - 80.00 us shipped
Bosch 17014 O2 sensor- 38.00 plus shipping off ebay- seller was ourdealsrock otherwise Online Auto Parts and Auto Accessories Store at PartsAmerica.com had the next cheapest price at 50.00 plus shipping. you can use a VW sensor if you dont want the bosch, the app is for any '01 and later turbo beetle or other car with AWP engine code.it is the snesor BEFORE the cat
project box from radio shack- 5.29
O2 sensor bung- 5.00 from meineke
i had to buy a DB9 serial cable, i didnt have one. can order em online for 5 bucks otherwise use a serial to USB converter- 10-20 bucks online
if you dont have a welder most exhaust shops will prolly mount and weld the bung in for like 25-30 bucks.
so we have 80
38
5.29
+ 5.00
128.29 total plus about 7 dollars for shipping on the O2
its like a sore dick- cant beat it!
if you have a boosted car, or any kind of high performance project you NEED some kind of wideband, and as cheap as this is you have no excuse! GET ONE!
i havent even used any of the extra features yet- datalogs up to 3 inputs like rpm, map , etc, and has 2 programable outputs.
i just hope i dont rear end somebody cause i got one eye on the display, lol
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Re: Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby Mason » Mon May 03, 2010 12:06 pm

Just finished mine it must be a newer model than the guy above me. Mine has a usb port instead of a serial port. Haven't hooked it up yet but it takes about 2 hrs to assemble. its going a 68 squareback integrated with Mega Squirt. I'll let you know how it works.
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Re: Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby vdubjim » Tue May 04, 2010 8:43 pm

how much do you have in it?
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Re: Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby Mason » Wed May 05, 2010 2:33 pm

$150 with sensor and wiring shipped.
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Re: Cheap ass but good wideband o2

Postby Mason » Wed May 05, 2010 3:58 pm

Actually maybe a little more than $150 the one shown above is the SLC DIY kit.
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